Maytag Dryer Not Heating: What to Check

A Maytag dryer that runs but will not heat usually has one of three simple causes: a no-heat cycle is selected, one of the two breakers on an electric model has tripped, or the gas valve on a gas model is closed. If those check out and the drum is still cold after a short empty test, a heating part has likely failed and a technician should take a look.

Maytag's support pages begin with a quick test. Choose a timed cycle that uses heat, run it empty for 5 minutes, and then open the door and feel inside. If it is warm, the dryer heats and the real issue is slow drying, usually from airflow. If it is cold, work through the checks below. For the general version of this problem on any brand, see our guide to a dryer not heating.

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Before you start

• Unplug an electric dryer or turn off its breakers before you move it, check the cord or touch the vent.
• Gas dryer: if you smell gas, do not use light switches, the dryer controls or a phone near the smell. Get everyone out, then call your gas utility or 911 from outside.
• Leave the inside of the cabinet to a trained technician. Electric dryers run on 240 volts.

Step-by-step checks

Rule out a no-heat cycle

Maytag says Air Only and Air/Fluff cycles never add heat at any point. They are meant for delicates and items that shrink easily. If the cold air started after someone else used the dryer, check the cycle first.

Turn off EcoBoost if you want full heat

On Maytag dryers with EcoBoost, the option runs on the Regular/Normal cycle and uses slightly lower heat to save energy. Maytag notes it can add about 40 minutes to the cycle. Turn it off when you need the fastest drying. Low-heat settings can also make it feel like the dryer is not getting hot.

Check the breakers and power supply

Maytag explains that an electric dryer uses two 30-amp breakers, one for the drum motor and one for the heating element. If the heating side trips, the drum keeps turning but there is no heat. Check both and reset any that tripped, or replace a blown fuse.

The dryer needs a 240-volt supply. If you are not sure your outlet provides it, Maytag recommends a qualified electrician. On a new install or after a move, also confirm the power cord was connected as the 3-wire or 4-wire installation instructions describe. Unplug the dryer before checking that the terminal screws are tight.

Check the gas supply on gas models

If the drum turns but there is no heat on a gas dryer, Maytag says the shutoff valve in the supply line may be closed. It is open when the handle runs parallel to the gas pipe. Anything beyond opening that valve, such as reconnecting the line or a suspected leak, belongs with a qualified gas installer. Our gas dryer repair directory lists companies that do this work, and our gas dryer not heating guide explains how the burner parts work.

Look for a code on the display

• L2: low or no line voltage is keeping the heater from turning on. Maytag says it shows during initial installation. Check fuses and both breakers, confirm the cord installation, and run a Timed Dry heated cycle. If L2 stays, call an electrician.
• AF or F4E3: restricted airflow, usually from a clogged lint screen or a vent that is clogged, crushed, kinked or has too many turns.
• F# E# (alternating): the control has found a problem that needs service.

Clear the lint screen and vent

Maytag lists several signs of poor airflow: clothes that come out warm but damp, extra heat or humidity in the laundry room, and lint gathering around the door seal or lint housing. Empty the lint screen before every load. If dryer sheets leave a film, wash the screen in warm water with a soft brush and let it dry completely.

With the dryer unplugged, look at the duct behind it for kinks, crushing or extra length, and clear lint at the wall connection. Outside, make sure the hood flap opens while the dryer runs and nothing is blocking it. Maytag recommends rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, not plastic or foil, a short and straight run, and cleaning the whole vent every one to two years or sooner if drying slows. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission makes the same point about swapping plastic or foil duct for metal. Our clogged dryer vent guide covers fire warning signs.

What usually fails

Maytag's guidance is to schedule service when the dryer does not heat after these checks, or when long drying continues after cleaning. A technician will usually test the parts below.

If a thermal fuse is the problem, ask the technician to check the vent too. A fuse that blew from overheating will often blow again if the airflow problem stays. Our dryer thermal fuse guide explains the connection.

When to call a technician

• The empty 5-minute heat test is cold after you checked the cycle, breakers and gas valve.
• An F# E# code appears, or L2 stays after the electrical checks.
• AF or F4E3 comes back after you clean the lint screen and the whole vent.
• You notice a burning smell or the cabinet feels very hot. Stop using the dryer until it is checked.
• The issue involves the gas burner or gas line.

Our Maytag dryer repair directory lists local companies, including city pages for Atlanta and Phoenix. If the dryer is still under manufacturer coverage, check that before paying out of pocket.

Repair cost

Angi puts most no-heat dryer repairs at about $80 to $420, depending on the part. Fixr lists heating element replacement at $150 to $350, thermostat replacement at $100 to $260, and gas igniter replacement at $100 to $250, while Angi lists thermal fuse repair at $80 to $130. Expect a service call fee as well; Fixr puts it at $50 to $80. See our dryer repair cost guide for more.

Fixr suggests replacement starts to make more sense once a dryer is about 10 years old. On a newer Maytag with a single failed heating part, repair is usually the better value, especially if you fix the airflow problem that may have caused it.