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Dryer Not Heating: Causes and Fixes

What to check yourself, which parts usually fail, and when a technician is the right call.

Dryer Not Heating: Causes and Fixes

When a dryer tumbles but stays cold, the cause is usually one of three things: the dryer isn't getting the power or gas it needs, a cycle that never uses heat is selected, or a heat-related part has failed. The first two you can often fix in a few minutes. A failed heating element, thermal fuse, igniter or gas valve coil usually means opening the cabinet, which is a job for a technician.

Work through the simple checks below in order before you book a dryer repair visit.

First, confirm it really isn't heating

Whirlpool and Maytag both suggest a quick test: pick a heated timed cycle, run the dryer empty for about five minutes, then open the door and feel the air inside. If it's warm, the dryer is heating and the real problem is slow drying, which usually points to airflow, load size or settings. Our guide to a dryer not drying or taking too long covers that problem.

If the drum is cold after five minutes, keep going.

What you can check safely yourself

Unplug the dryer before you touch anything behind or inside it. If you have a gas dryer and you smell gas at any point, stop. Leave the house, don't flip switches or use a phone inside, and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

1. The cycle setting

Air Only, Air Fluff and cool-down settings never add heat, according to Whirlpool and Maytag. GE also says to make sure a real dry cycle, not fluff or cool down, is selected. On LG models, the Energy Saver option on Cotton/Normal can run without heat for much of the cycle, which feels like a heating problem but isn't.

2. The circuit breakers (electric dryers)

Electric dryers need a 240-volt supply. Whirlpool and Maytag explain that the motor and the heating element run on separate legs of a 30-amp circuit, so one breaker can trip and leave the drum turning with no heat. GE adds that a breaker can be partly tripped without looking tripped. Turn the dryer breaker fully off, then back on, and test again. If the dryer is getting only 120 volts, GE notes it will run but won't heat.

3. The gas supply (gas dryers)

A gas dryer still needs electricity to run the drum and the igniter, so check the breaker or fuse too. Then look at the shutoff valve on the gas line behind the dryer. Whirlpool and Maytag both note the valve is open when its handle runs parallel to the pipe. If it's closed, the drum turns but the dryer never heats. For more on burners and ignition, see our guide to a gas dryer not heating.

4. The lint screen and vent

A packed lint screen or crushed vent hose doesn't always stop heat completely, but it does make drying slow and puts strain on the heating system. Clean the screen after every load, as Whirlpool recommends. Pull the dryer out and look at the duct behind it for kinks or crushing, and make sure the outdoor vent flap opens while the dryer runs. The U.S. Fire Administration lists dirty lint filters and vents as a fire risk, and our guide to a clogged dryer vent explains the warning signs.

5. The power cord connection

GE notes that a burned, loose or frayed connection at the cord terminal block on the back of the dryer can cause heating problems. If you see scorch marks there, leave the dryer unplugged and have it checked. Don't run it.

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The parts that usually fail

If power, gas and settings all check out, a part has most likely failed. Here's what each one does and what a technician looks at.

PartDryer typeWhat happens when it fails
Heating elementElectricThe coil that heats the air breaks, so the drum turns but no heat is produced.
Thermal fuseElectric and gasA one-time safety device that blows when the dryer overheats. It can't be reset and must be replaced.
IgniterGasLights the gas at the burner. If it's defective, the gas won't ignite.
Gas valve coilsGasControl gas flow to the burner. Worn coils can cause no heat or heat that comes and goes.
Flame sensorGasDetects when the burner is ready to light. If it's broken, the dryer won't heat.
Temperature sensor or thermistorElectric and gasMonitors cycle temperature so the control can manage heat.

Whirlpool describes each of these parts in its own guides, and it recommends a professional for both the heating element and thermal fuse because the dryer has to be taken apart to reach them.

Why a thermal fuse blows

A blown thermal fuse is a symptom, not just a part failure. It usually means the dryer got too hot, often because the vent was restricted. Replacing the fuse without clearing the vent tends to lead to another blown fuse. Our dryer thermal fuse guide explains the signs.

How gas ignition works

GE explains that its gas dryers use a glow-bar igniter instead of a pilot light. A few seconds after the cycle starts, the igniter heats up, a sensor signals the gas valve to open, and the igniter lights the gas. GE notes that gas isn't released unless the igniter is working. That's why a weak igniter or worn valve coils usually leave the burner dark instead of creating a gas hazard. Gas parts still belong in a technician's hands, so call a gas dryer repair company for this kind of fault.

What a technician tests

A technician checks the outlet voltage and cord connections first, then opens the cabinet and tests the heating element, thermal fuse and thermostats for continuity with a meter. On gas dryers, they watch the ignition sequence. If the igniter glows but the burner never lights, the valve coils or flame sensor are the usual suspects. If the igniter never glows, they check the igniter and the fuse or sensors upstream of it. A good tech also checks the vent, because a part that failed from overheating will fail again if airflow stays poor.

Some brands show an error code when a heat circuit fails. Check your owner's manual or the manufacturer's support page for your model. Brand pages for Samsung, LG and Whirlpool dryer repair list local companies that work on those machines.

When to stop DIY and call a pro

  • You smell gas or suspect a leak. Leave and call the gas utility from outside.
  • You see scorch marks, melted plastic or a burning smell anywhere on the dryer.
  • The breakers, settings and gas valve are fine and it still won't heat.
  • A breaker trips again right after you reset it.
  • The thermal fuse has blown more than once.
  • Fixing it means removing panels, testing parts with a meter or touching gas connections.

What the repair usually costs

No-heat repairs are among the most common dryer jobs, and the part is usually the smaller share of the bill. Labor and the service call make up most of it. Angi puts a no-heat repair at about $80 to $420 depending on the cause. Fixr lists heating element replacement at about $150 to $350, igniter replacement at about $100 to $250 and gas valve coil replacement at about $150 to $300, while Angi puts a thermal fuse repair at about $80 to $130. Our dryer repair cost guide breaks down typical ranges by part from published consumer cost guides. If the dryer is old and the quote is high, our guide on how long dryers last can help you decide whether to repair or replace it.

When you're ready, find a local repair company by browsing our listings by state.

Sources

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