Dryer Not Drying or Taking Too Long to Dry

When a dryer runs a full cycle and the clothes are still damp, the cause is usually airflow, not the dryer itself: a dirty lint screen, a crushed or clogged vent, or an overloaded drum. If the drum is not getting warm at all, the problem is more likely a heating part, a tripped breaker, or a closed gas valve. Start with the airflow checks below, because a restricted vent also makes the dryer run hotter than it should.

Why slow drying is a warning sign

The Consumer Product Safety Commission notes that clothes still damp after a normal cycle, or drying that takes longer than usual, can mean the lint screen or exhaust duct is blocked. Lint that builds up in the dryer or the duct restricts airflow and lets heat build, which in some dryers can lead to a fire. CPSC staff also point out that an overloaded drum, a blocked duct or a blocked lint screen can make the dryer repeatedly trip its high-limit safety thermostat, and that slow drying may be the only sign something is wrong. So a dryer that "just takes two cycles" deserves a look, not a workaround. Our guide to a clogged dryer vent and fire safety covers the venting side in more depth.

What you can safely check yourself

Unplug the dryer before you pull it away from the wall or reach behind it; gas dryers have a power cord too. If you have a gas dryer and you smell gas, do not touch switches or controls. Leave the house and call your gas utility from outside or from a neighbor's home.

1. Lint screen

Clean the lint screen before or after every load. Whirlpool notes that fabric softener sheets can leave a film on the screen that blocks air even when it looks clean; wash it with warm water and a soft brush and let it dry fully before putting it back.

2. Load size and cycle

Whirlpool recommends filling the drum only about half to three-quarters full so clothes can tumble and air can move. Dry heavy items such as towels apart from light clothes, and dry a comforter by itself. Check the cycle, too: Air Dry or Fluff adds no heat, low-heat settings are slow by design, and timed quick cycles are meant for small loads. Some Whirlpool models have an eco option that lengthens the cycle on purpose.

3. Is it heating?

Whirlpool suggests running an empty heated cycle for about five minutes, then opening the door and feeling inside. On an electric dryer, confirm the plug is seated and that both breakers for the 240-volt circuit are on, since a tripped breaker can cut the heat. On a gas dryer, confirm the supply valve is open. If there is no heat, see our guides for a dryer not heating and a gas dryer not heating.

4. The vent behind the dryer

Look at the duct between the dryer and the wall. It should not be kinked, crushed or pushed flat against the wall. Whirlpool and the CPSC both call for rigid or semi-rigid metal duct rather than plastic or foil accordion duct, which sags, traps lint and crushes easily. Pull lint out of the duct and the wall opening.

5. The outside vent hood

With the dryer running, go outside and check that air is coming out and the flap opens. The CPSC says that if you feel little or no exhaust, the vent or duct may be blocked. Clear lint, leaves, snow or nests from the hood. Whirlpool also notes the hood should sit at least 12 inches above the ground or plants.

If your dryer shows a "Check Vent" or similar airflow message, Whirlpool says it is reporting restricted airflow from the lint screen or vent. For brand-specific messages, see our Samsung dryer not drying guide or the Whirlpool dryer repair page.

Signs the vent run is the real problem

Whirlpool lists these clues that airflow is restricted: loads come out warm but damp, the laundry room feels hot or humid while the dryer runs, and lint collects around the door seal or lint housing. It also notes that a brand-new dryer hooked to old house venting can still dry slowly, because the duct is the bottleneck.

Long runs and many turns add resistance. Residential building code based on the International Residential Code limits a standard 4-inch dryer exhaust duct to 35 feet, with each elbow counting against that length, unless the dryer maker's instructions allow more. Whirlpool says to keep the run as short and straight as possible and to check your model's installation instructions for its limit. NFPA recommends cleaning the vent pipe at least once a year, or sooner if drying takes longer than usual.

Likely failed parts and what a technician tests

If the lint screen, load and vent all check out and the dryer still will not dry, a technician will usually look at:

• Thermal fuse. A one-time safety fuse that opens when the dryer overheats, often because of a blocked vent. Replacing it without fixing the airflow problem usually means it blows again; see our dryer thermal fuse guide.
• Heating element (electric). An open element gives a dryer that tumbles but stays cold, or warms weakly.
• Ignition system (gas). On a gas dryer, the igniter and gas valve parts are checked to confirm the burner lights and stays lit.
• Thermostats and sensors. Cycling and high-limit thermostats control temperature. A moisture or temperature sensor that misreads can end a cycle early and leave clothes damp.
• Airflow inside the cabinet. CPSC staff note that lint can build up inside the cabinet even when the screen is cleaned every load, so a tech may open the dryer and clean it out.

A technician normally confirms power at the outlet, measures parts with a meter rather than swapping them at random, and checks airflow at the exhaust.

When to stop and call a pro

Stop DIY and call for service if the dryer does not heat after the breaker and gas valve checks, if you see an error code that returns after cleaning, if long dry times persist after you have cleaned the screen and vent, or if you notice a burning smell (read what to do if your dryer smells like burning). Any work on gas lines or gas connections belongs with a qualified professional. NFPA and the U.S. Fire Administration both recommend having dryers installed and serviced by a professional.

You can browse local dryer repair companies or start from your state on the states page. City pages such as dryer repair in Houston list companies by area.

Rough cost

HomeAdvisor puts typical dryer repair at about $100 to $400. This Old House reports service call or diagnostic fees from about $40 to $200 per visit. If the fix is the vent rather than the dryer, HomeAdvisor lists a normal range of about $104 to $188 for professional dryer vent cleaning. For more on pricing, see our dryer repair cost guide.