Dryer Won't Start: What to Check First

A dryer that won't start is most often a power, door or control-setting problem rather than a broken part. Check the plug, the breaker, the door latch, the control lock and how long you're holding Start before you call anyone. If those are fine, the usual failed parts are the door switch, thermal fuse, drive motor or control board.

First, notice exactly what happens when you press Start. It narrows the cause quickly.

• Nothing at all: no lights, no display. Think power supply, cord or breaker.
• Display lights up but nothing runs: think door, control lock, cycle selection or an error code.
• You hear the motor hum but the drum doesn't turn: think drive belt or motor. Our guide to a dryer not spinning or tumbling covers this.
• It runs but stays cold: that's a heating problem. See our guide to a dryer not heating.

What you can check safely yourself

Unplug the dryer before you look behind it or touch the cord. If you have a gas dryer and you smell gas, stop. Leave the house without flipping switches or using a phone inside, and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.

1. The plug and cord

GE's first check is simply that the plug is pushed all the way into the outlet. Kenmore says to make sure the cord is fully plugged into a grounded outlet. Dryers get bumped when they're pulled out for cleaning, and a half-seated plug is easy to miss. With power off, Samsung suggests inspecting the plug, cord and outlet for damage or burn marks. If you see scorching, leave the dryer unplugged and have it checked.

2. The breaker or fuses

Whirlpool notes that electric dryers use two fuses or breakers and gas dryers use one. Switch the dryer breaker fully off, then back on, or replace a blown fuse. GE says the dryer should be on its own dedicated circuit. If the breaker trips again, Whirlpool and Samsung both say to call an electrician rather than keep resetting it.

3. The door and latch

Every dryer has a door switch that keeps it from running with the door open. Whirlpool says to push the door until it latches, check that no clothing is caught in it, and on models with upper and lower latches, make sure both engage. GE suggests opening the door and looking at the switch itself. A scorched switch, or one that stays pushed in, can keep the dryer from running.

4. How you're pressing Start

On many Whirlpool models you have to press and hold Start for about two to five seconds. A quick tap may not engage the motor. On touch panels, use a fingertip rather than a fingernail, and dry your hands and the panel first. GE says to press the Start button all the way down.

5. Control lock or child lock

If the buttons beep but nothing happens, the controls may be locked. Kenmore and Samsung both name this as a common cause. Whirlpool says most of its models unlock by holding the Cycle Signal button for three seconds, while LG shows a CL code and unlocks by holding the Child Lock button for a few seconds. Your owner's manual lists the exact button for your model.

6. The cycle selection

The dial needs to be on an actual drying cycle. Whirlpool notes some models won't start on Wrinkle Reduction. On some GE dryers, a display showing "1" or "2" means the dryer needs to be told whether it's electric or gas before it will run, and GE explains how to select the right one.

7. Error codes

Samsung says to look for an error code or blinking lights before anything else. Some codes point straight at the cause. LG's nP code means a power supply problem, for example, and Samsung lists door and latch codes. Look up any code in the manufacturer's support pages before guessing.

The parts that usually fail

If power, door and settings all check out, a component is likely the problem. Whirlpool and Maytag describe these parts in their guides:

Whirlpool says a blown thermal fuse cuts power to the motor and can't be reset. Maytag adds that it has to be replaced before the dryer will run again, and checking it means taking parts of the machine apart. A blown fuse usually points to overheating, often from a clogged vent, so read our dryer thermal fuse guide before you replace one. Whirlpool recommends professional help to diagnose a control board fault, and Maytag recommends a professional for motor replacement.

What a technician tests

A technician checks the outlet voltage and cord connections first. On electric dryers, GE notes the terminal block where the cord attaches can burn or come loose, and both the cord and block should be replaced if they're damaged. Next, they test the door switch, thermal fuse and start circuit for continuity with a meter. If those pass, they check whether the motor gets power and turns, and whether the belt is intact. The control board comes last, since it's usually the most expensive part and the hardest to confirm.

A good tech also checks the vent. If the thermal fuse blew because airflow was restricted, a new fuse will blow again unless the vent is cleaned. Our guide to a clogged dryer vent covers the warning signs.

When to stop DIY and call a pro

• The breaker trips again as soon as you reset it.
• You see burn marks on the plug, cord, outlet or terminal block.
• You smell burning or see smoke. Unplug the dryer if it's safe to do so.
• Power, door, lock and settings are all fine and it still won't start.
• The fix means removing panels or testing parts with a meter.

Local companies are listed under dryer repair, with brand pages for Samsung, LG and Whirlpool dryer repair.

What the repair usually costs

Many no-start problems cost nothing to fix once you find a tripped breaker or a locked panel. When a part has failed, Fixr lists door switch replacement at about $50 to $150, timer replacement at about $150 to $300 and drive motor replacement at about $250 to $450. Angi puts a thermal fuse repair at about $80 to $130 and a replacement control board at about $90 to $280 for the part alone. Fixr says most service calls run about $50 to $80. Our dryer repair cost guide has more detail by part.

Ready to book? Browse dryer repair companies in cities like Atlanta, or find your area by state.